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Route 1 - Presidio Texas to Torreón Coahuila
Route 1 - Presidio Texas to Torreón Coahuila
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Argentina IV: Horizons Found
It was a damp 70km to the border. At 8:30 AM the clouds were hovering low over the Puyehue National Park. The road wound between...
Mar 168 min read
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Chile II: Thirty Hours of Island Life
Looking back at Coyhaique before it disappeared behind the mountain was like the last view of Shangri-La. For a few moments the sun broke...
Mar 17 min read
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Chile I: When South Ran Out
At the Los Libertadores International Pass, at the top of the mountain, we checked-out of Argentina and entered Chile. Behind the...
Jan 278 min read
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Argentina III: Shattering the Myth
It took only minutes to leave Foz do Iguaçu and Brazil, the informal return of Bolivar’s permit taking the longest. The customs officer...
Dec 21, 20248 min read
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Brazil: Sweet Mysteries of Life
We entered Brazil at ChuÃ, the country’s southernmost town. There were shops selling clothes and household items, enticing the population...
Nov 17, 20246 min read
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Uruguay: "Everything but the Moo"
The ferry left Buenos Aires in a heavy drizzle and the grey RÃo de la Plata merged with a leaden sky. Landing on the opposite shore,...
Nov 7, 20246 min read
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Argentina II: How the West was Fun
Halfway across the international bridge we entered Argentina for the second time. Coming into the border area at Posadas, there were...
Oct 9, 20248 min read
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Paraguay: Never Fern from Heim
Half the window was covered-up so most of the light came from the choir. A maté gourd with its silver straw sat beside the computer...
Sep 17, 20249 min read
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Argentina I: Fiscal Fumblings
In Villazón, Bolivia ended at a small bridge with a sign in the middle splitting the two countries. Immigration was a messy affair with...
Sep 7, 20245 min read
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Bolivia: It's a Gas
No matter who we talked to, or when, they all agreed on one thing: Bolivia was a pain in the ass. The trouble was fuel there was...
Jul 29, 202410 min read
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Peru VIII: The Edge of the World
The Huaquillas – Tumbes border was hardly recognizable. It was almost empty. Last time, the lines were three-deep and snaking all the way...
Jun 28, 20249 min read
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Ecuador II: Helping Hans and Other Acts of Rescue
In 2019 there was a series of protests and riots in Ecuador due to the introduction of austerity measures and more importantly,...
Jun 7, 20246 min read
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Colombia VIII: Easter Rising
When we were young the week before Easter was more of the same: plain Lenten denial, except now there was an end in sight. We were still...
May 18, 20247 min read
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Colombia VII: Between a RUNT and a Hard Place
If you want to drive in Colombia, in a Colombian vehicle, you must have a RUNT. This involves getting registered in a national database...
Apr 12, 20246 min read
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Colombia VI: Prelude
THE DECISION It was as far back as the second big lockdown, in late 2020, that we first thought seriously about buying a bike in South...
Mar 21, 20246 min read
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Spain III: Never The Same Day Twice
While waiting for parts in France I spent a long time researching altitudes and mountian passes, anything the Pyrennese might throw at...
Dec 16, 20238 min read
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France II: Every Time We Say Goodbye
There’s supposedly strong evidence that when thinking in a second language one becomes more rational, less emotional, thus paving the way...
Oct 1, 20238 min read
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France I: When Your Heartaches Begin
The trouble with leaving one country on a high note is it’s not always mirrored by equally pleasing music on the other side. We entered...
Jul 23, 20238 min read
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Germany II: History Repeating
There was a motorcycle repair shop in Hamburg called Zeitlos. Its owner is a certified master mechanic who we met on the Soviet Steeds...
Jun 3, 20238 min read
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Sweden: Peru's Promise
Two to three months into the first lockdown, winter came to Peru. In our small, walled-in hotel outside Ica it was still hot during the...
Apr 16, 20236 min read
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