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Route 1 - Presidio Texas to Torreón Coahuila
Route 1 - Presidio Texas to Torreón Coahuila
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Ecuador III: Let Me Count The Ways
The truck drivers were pushy and had no respect for personal space. We had to share a customs window with them to get Bolívar out of...
Jun 165 min read


Peru IX: Return to the Old Familiar
The small customs outpost was clearly a punishment for the underachievers of the Aduana . It was the only building for miles and we were...
May 247 min read


Chile III: Destination Sandbox
Lots of people tell us “Come back anytime”, but our friend’s Dad and his Chilean wife sounded as if they meant it. True or not, we...
Apr 1310 min read


Argentina IV: Horizons Found
It was a damp 70km to the border. At 8:30 AM the clouds were hovering low over the Puyehue National Park. The road wound between...
Mar 168 min read


Chile II: Thirty Hours of Island Life
Looking back at Coyhaique before it disappeared behind the mountain was like the last view of Shangri-La. For a few moments the sun broke...
Mar 17 min read


Chile I: When South Ran Out
At the Los Libertadores International Pass, at the top of the mountain, we checked-out of Argentina and entered Chile. Behind the...
Jan 278 min read


Argentina III: Shattering the Myth
It took only minutes to leave Foz do Iguaçu and Brazil, the informal return of Bolivar’s permit taking the longest. The customs officer...
Dec 21, 20248 min read


Brazil: Sweet Mysteries of Life
We entered Brazil at Chuí, the country’s southernmost town. There were shops selling clothes and household items, enticing the population...
Nov 17, 20246 min read


Uruguay: "Everything but the Moo"
The ferry left Buenos Aires in a heavy drizzle and the grey Río de la Plata merged with a leaden sky. Landing on the opposite shore,...
Nov 7, 20246 min read


Argentina II: How the West was Fun
Halfway across the international bridge we entered Argentina for the second time. Coming into the border area at Posadas, there were...
Oct 9, 20248 min read


Paraguay: Never Fern from Heim
Half the window was covered-up so most of the light came from the choir. A maté gourd with its silver straw sat beside the computer...
Sep 17, 20249 min read


Argentina I: Fiscal Fumblings
In Villazón, Bolivia ended at a small bridge with a sign in the middle splitting the two countries. Immigration was a messy affair with...
Sep 7, 20245 min read


Bolivia: It's a Gas
No matter who we talked to, or when, they all agreed on one thing: Bolivia was a pain in the ass. The trouble was fuel there was...
Jul 29, 202410 min read


Peru VIII: The Edge of the World
The Huaquillas – Tumbes border was hardly recognizable. It was almost empty. Last time, the lines were three-deep and snaking all the way...
Jun 28, 20249 min read


Ecuador II: Helping Hans and Other Acts of Rescue
In 2019 there was a series of protests and riots in Ecuador due to the introduction of austerity measures and more importantly,...
Jun 7, 20246 min read


Colombia VIII: Easter Rising
When we were young the week before Easter was more of the same: plain Lenten denial, except now there was an end in sight. We were still...
May 18, 20247 min read


Colombia VII: Between a RUNT and a Hard Place
If you want to drive in Colombia, in a Colombian vehicle, you must have a RUNT. This involves getting registered in a national database...
Apr 12, 20246 min read


Colombia VI: Prelude
THE DECISION It was as far back as the second big lockdown, in late 2020, that we first thought seriously about buying a bike in South...
Mar 21, 20246 min read


Peru VII: Leaving Lima
It was a little bit like war, those last days in Lima: long periods of boredom interrupted by short bursts of terror. Terror is an...
Sep 22, 20208 min read


Peru VI: Out Of The Frying Pan?
If you want to give God a laugh, make plans. Wise words from my uncle’s kitchen table in Michigan in October 2017. We’ve driven 43,000 km...
Aug 10, 20208 min read
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